《染整工艺原理》课程教学参考书籍：Dr. Charles Tomasino《Chemistry Technology of Fabric Preparation Finishing》

Chemistry Technology aric Preparation Finishing Dr. Charles tomasino OUNDED MAKCH 7 Department of Textile Engineering, Chemistry science College offextiles North Carolina State University Raleigh, North Carolina

Chemistry & Technology of Fabric Preparation & Finishing by Dr. Charles Tomasino Department of Textile Engineering, Chemistry & Science College of Textiles North Carolina State University Raleigh, North Carolina

PREFACE Global competition has caused the Us textile industry to moderni e an become cost competitive because developing nations have discovered that exporting textile products to the USa is an attractive way to enhance their economic growth Their low labor costs have pressured domestic producers into replacing labor intensive manufacturing equipment with automated, sophisticated, efficient, high technology machinery. The industry has focused on reducing costs, improving qualit and developing quick turnaround and response scenarios. These forces have impacted the number and quality of the technical work force. Graduates with a background in computers and information management are making up a larger portion of the entry-level technical staff. Process engineers dedicated to improving quality and efficiency make up the rest. Most of the entry level work force has little or no exposure to textile education or training, they have to rely on experienced technologists to guide and train them. Unfortunately as the older technologists retire, they take with them valuable technical knowledge and know-how leaving the skeletal remains technically unsupported. Most of the technical information is in the orm of supplier technical bulletins or in the files of one or two key old-time technologists. Very little is in written form, and what does exist, is not easil accessible to others needing the information. The new-hires are expected to perform their job assignment without the benefit of having trained under a technologist who understands the fundamentals of the process There are many references dealing with the subject of textile wet processing Some are text books describing particular aspects of bleaching and dyeing. There are also a few volumes describing chemical finishing. These books, while filled with valuable information, are old and limited to fibers, fabrics and processes importan at the time they were written. Some up-to-date information can be found in specific single topic papers or bound compilation of research and technical conferences papers Other sources are specific technical support bulletins issued by chemical or fiber companies. The literature is devoid, however, of books that survey the whole field in one volume and stress fundamentals rather than specific recipes and procedures The idea for this book started with the need to provide students in textile chemistry written material to support courses in dyeing and finishing, in particular fabric preparation and fabric finishing. I was disappointed that there was no single volume reference book which adequately covered the information I deemed important In the beginning, course material was a compilation of class notes gathered from multitude of sources. It soon became clear that a more complete, written monograph was needed to adequately convey the important chemistry and technology. There have also been numerous requests from industrial contacts for single volume reference material for people entering the field

PREFACE Global competition has caused the US textile industry to modernize and become cost competitive because developing nations have discovered that exporting textile products to the USA is an attractive way to enhance their economic growth. Their low labor costs have pressured domestic producers into replacing labor intensive manufacturing equipment with automated, sophisticated, efficient, high￾technology machinery. The industry has focused on reducing costs, improving quality and developing quick turnaround and response scenarios. These forces have impacted the number and quality of the technical work force. Graduates with a background in computers and information management are making up a larger portion of the entry-level technical staff. Process engineers dedicated to improving quality and efficiency make up the rest. Most of the entry level work force has little or no exposure to textile education or training, they have to rely on experienced technologists to guide and train them. Unfortunately as the older technologists retire, they take with them valuable technical knowledge and know-how leaving the skeletal remains technically unsupported. Most of the technical information is in the form of supplier technical bulletins or in the files of one or two key old-time technologists. Very little is in written form, and what does exist, is not easily accessible to others needing the information. The new-hires are expected to perform their job assignment without the benefit of having trained under a technologist who understands the fundamentals of the process. There are many references dealing with the subject of textile wet processing. Some are text books describing particular aspects of bleaching and dyeing. There are also a few volumes describing chemical finishing. These books, while filled with valuable information, are old and limited to fibers, fabrics and processes important at the time they were written. Some up-to-date information can be found in specific, single topic papers or bound compilation of research and technical conferences papers. Other sources are specific technical support bulletins issued by chemical or fiber companies. The literature is devoid, however, of books that survey the whole field in one volume and stress fundamentals rather than specific recipes and procedures. The idea for this book started with the need to provide students in textile chemistry written material to support courses in dyeing and finishing, in particular fabric preparation and fabric finishing. I was disappointed that there was no single volume reference book which adequately covered the information I deemed important. In the beginning, course material was a compilation of class notes gathered from a multitude of sources. It soon became clear that a more complete, written monograph was needed to adequately convey the important chemistry and technology. There have also been numerous requests from industrial contacts for single volume reference material for people entering the field. 11

At the urging of my colleagues and industry peers, I have been persuaded to publish this collection of information so that anyone may have access to it without the laborious and time-consuming efforts required of me. As a reference source, I have used published information where possible. The book is arranged in two parts preparation and finishing. In both sections, I have attempted to describe both the mechanical and process parameters, as well as the underlying chemistry behind each process. The major focus in describing the underlying chemistry is the fiber/chemical interaction; however, where possible, I have provided a brief review of the appropriate chemistry behind the various classes of chemical auxiliaries. each part of the book is subdivided into a part that describes equipment and a part that describes unit operations. Some attempt is made to describe the stages in sequence, one that a ty pical greige fabric may follow. However, it is important for readers to understand that there is no one single correct way to perform textile wet processing. Each dyehouse has its own character, depending largely on the type of equipment and type of fabric it processes. This makes the selection of operating parameters dyehouse specific and one may be faced with having to select from several options to achieve the desired end-product. Regardless of which option selected, the same final fabric properties must be met. To this end, I have stressed the objectives and fundamentals of each process. It has been my opinion over the years, that those operations with technical staff well grounded in the fundamentals, ran more smoothly than one whe relied on trial and error as a means of setting up their process Fabric preparation has been subdivided into singeing, desizing, scouring, bleaching, mercerizing, carbonizing and heat setting. Finishing is broken down into chemical and mechanical. Chemical finishing covers those treatments that alter the performance of the textile fabric where the chemical is the major component of the change. Mechanical finishing refers to certain ty pes of mechanical devices that physically alters the fabric Contributing to the existence of this monograph is the age of computers and word processing. I would have never undertaken this task without the convenience and ease of compiling and moving the information about, something I would have ver done by hand. It is my sincere hope that you will find the book valuable, and I welcome comments and suggestions for future revisions Charles tomasino Raleigh, North Carolina August, 1992

At the urging of my colleagues and industry peers, I have been persuaded to publish this collection of information so that anyone may have access to it without the laborious and time-consuming efforts required of me. As a reference source, I have used published information where possible. The book is arranged in two parts, preparation and finishing. In both sections, I have attempted to describe both the mechanical and process parameters, as well as the underlying chemistry behind each process. The major focus in describing the underlying chemistry is the fiber/chemical interaction; however, where possible, I have provided a brief review of the appropriate chemistry behind the various classes of chemical auxiliaries. Each part of the book is subdivided into a part that describes equipment and a part that describes unit operations. Some attempt is made to describe the stages in sequence, one that a typical greige fabric may follow. However, it is important for readers to understand that there is no one single correct way to perform textile wet processing. Each dyehouse has its own character, depending largely on the type of equipment and type of fabric it processes. This makes the selection of operating parameters dyehouse￾specific and one may be faced with having to select from several options to achieve the desired end-product. Regardless of which option selected, the same final fabric properties must be met. To this end, I have stressed the objectives and fundamentals of each process. It has been my opinion over the years, that those operations with a technical staff well grounded in the fundamentals, ran more smoothly than one who relied on trial and error as a means of setting up their process. Fabric preparation has been subdivided into singeing, desizing, scouring, bleaching, mercerizing, carbonizing and heat setting. Finishing is broken down into chemical and mechanical. Chemical finishing covers those treatments that alter the performance of the textile fabric where the chemical is the major component of the change. Mechanical finishing refers to certain types of mechanical devices that physically alters the fabric. Contributing to the existence of this monograph is the age of computers and word processing. I would have never undertaken this task without the convenience and ease of compiling and moving the information about, something I would have never done by hand. It is my sincere hope that you will find the book valuable, and I welcome comments and suggestions for future revisions. Charles Tomasino Raleigh, North Carolina August 2, 1992 111

TABLE OF CONTENTS PART I FABRIC PREPARATION CHAPTER I PREPARATION PROCESSES I YARN PREPARATION EQUIPMENT Slasher II. FABRIC PREPARATION EQUIPMENT A. Batch Machines 1. Becks 2. Jet Machines 3. Jig B. Continuous Preparation Ranges 1. Continuous Rope Range 2. Continuous Open Width Range 22344456679990 a. Applicators. Pad b. Steamers c. Open Width Washers CHAPTER 2 CHEMISTRY OF YARN AND FABRIC PREPARATION 13 YARN PREPARATION 13 1. Requirement of a Good Size Spun Y b. Continuous filament yarns 14 c. General Requirements of a Good-Size II. FABRIC PREPARATION 14 A. Warp Size and Desizing 1. Sources of Sizing Compounds 14 III. STARCH Sources of Starches Used as Te 15 B. Chemical Constitutio 15 Amylose 15 C. Starch Solutions 16 1. Retrograding 16 D. Modified Starch 17 1. Thin Boiling Starch 17 Dextrin 3. British G

TABLE OF CONTENTS iv

4. Oxidized Starch 5. Starch ethers E. Desizing Starch 99 1. Enzyme Desizing a. Alpha and Beta Amylase 20 b. Effect of Temperature, pH and Electrolytes on Enzymatic Desizing 20 2. Desizing with Acids 3. Desizing with Oxidizing Agents 21 21 4. Test for Starch 21 5. Typical Procedures IV. CARBOXYMETHYL CELLULOSE(CMC) A. Synthesis 22 B. Advantages and Disadvantages over Starch 22 V. POLYVINYL ALCOHOL(PVA) 23 A. Synthesis of Polyvinyl Alcohol 1. Polymerization of Vinyl Acetate 2. Hydrolysis to Polyvinyl Alcohol 23 B. Commercial Method of Manufacture 23 C. Solution Properties 24 D. Grades of PvA Available as Textile Size 25 E. Film Properties 26 F. Desizing PVA 1. Effect of Heat-Setting on Removal of PvA a. Dehydration of PvA .26 2. Size Recovery 27 VI. ACRYLIC SIZES 2 A. Polyacrylic Acid 28 1. Synthesis of Polyacrylic Acid 28 Desizing Polyacrylic Acid 3. Acrylic Acid Co-Polymers 28 4. Effect of Heat- Setting on Removal 29 a. Anhydride Formation 2 VII. POLYESTER RESIN SIZES VIII. OTHER ADDITIVES ChAPTER 3 SCOURING 31 . COMPOSITION OF NATURAL FIBERS 31 II. CHEMISTRY OF OILS, FATS AND WAXES 32 A. Fats 32 B. Triglycerides 32 1. Hydrolysis of Triglycerides a. Acid Hydrolysis 33

33 C. Fatty Acids 33 Saturated Fatty Acids Unsaturated Fatty Acids III. SOURCES A. Vegetable Sources 34 Castor oil 35 Coconut Oil Corn Oil Cottonseed Oil 35 Olive Oil 35 Palm Oil 35 Linseed oil 35 Tall oil B arberry wax Japan wa B. Animal Sources 36 Tallow 36 36 Whale oil C. Chemical Wax 1. Fatty Alcohols a. Sources of Fatty Alcohols D. Mineral wax 1. Paraffin 2. Microcrystalline Wax E. Synthetic Wax Fatty Acids Fatty Alcohols 338888888 Polyethylene Glycols.. PEG Esters III. SOLVENT SCOURING A. Advantages and disadvantages B. Common Solvents 1. Solvent Properties 40 Boiling Point Specific Heat Latent Heat of Evaporation 40 2. Non-flammable solvents 41 IV. AQUEOUS SCOURING 41 A. Typical Formulation for Scouring Specific Fibers 1. Cotton a. Batch Scouring Procedure_ 42 b. Continuous Scouring Procedure

2. Wool a. Wool Raw Stock Scouring 3. Silk 43 4. Blend 44 Cotton 44 ayon 44 Wool Acetate Polyester B. Test for Effective Scouring 44 1. AATCC Test Method Number 79 44 V. WATER AS A RAW MATERIAL 44 A. Water Softening 1. Lime Soda Process 2. Cation Exchange 3. Sequestration or Chelation VI CLASSES OF SEQUESTERING AGENTS A. Polyphosphates 5555666 1. Formation of Polyphosphates 2. Important Polyphosphates 46 Tetrasodium pyrophosphate(TSPP) 4 (Tripoly)sodium phosphate (TSP) 46 Sodiumhexameta phosphate 3. Advantages of Inorganic Phosphates B. Organophosphonic Acids 666 1. Ethylenediaminetetra(methylenephosphonicAcid) EDTMP a. Advantages and Disadvantages: 47 C. Aminocarboxylic Acids 47 1. Disodium.Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid EDta) 47 a. Advantages and Disadvantages: 47 2. Nitrilotriacetic Acid (NTA) 47 D. Hydroxycarboxylic Acids 47 a. Advantages and Disadvantages: 47 VII. FORMATION OF COMPLEXES A. Formation Constant 48 VII. SURFACTANTS A. Physical Chemistry of surfactant Solutions B. Surface Tension C. Critical Micelle Concentration 50 IX. CLASSIFICATION OF SURFACTANTS 51 A. By Use 51 Wetting Agents Detergents

Emulsifying Agents Dispersing Agents B. By Ionic Cha 52 Anioni 52 n-lonac amphoteric X. NONIONIC SURFACTANTS Ethoxylates 52 1. Typical Hydrophobe 2. Water Solubility of Ethoxylated Nonylphenol 3. Cloud Point 4. Hydrophilic-Lyophilic Balance (HlB) 54 Structure of eth ted nonylphenol 55 b. Effect of Ethylene Oxide on Solubility Balance 4. Performance Wetting Ti 56 b. De 57 XI. ANIONIC SURFACTANTS 57 A. Chemical Classification of Anionic Surfactants 57 1. Soaps 2. Sulfonates a. Alkylaryl Sulfonates b. Sulfosuccinates 58 d. Sulfoethylamides 3. Sulfates a. Sulfated alcohols b. Sulfated ethoxylated alcohols 4. Phosphate esters 58 Monoesters and diesters 58 XII. CATIONICS CHAPTER 4 BLEACHING I. MAJOR BLEACHING AGENTS II. SODIUM HYPOCHLORITE 61 A. Bleaching Mechanism B. Effect of pH C. Effect of Time and Temperature D. Effect of Metals E. Antichlor

F. Us G. Typical Batch Procedure Formulation b. Bleach Cycle: III. HYDROGEN PEROXIDE 63 A. Mechanism B. Effect of 64 C. Effect of Time and Temperature D. Stabilizers 1. Sodium Silicates 2.O Stabili 65 3. Phosphat E. US F. Typical Bleaching Procedures 1. Batch a. Bath Formulation 666 b. Bleach Cycle 2. Continuous Bath Formulation b. Bleach Cycle ⅣV. SODIUM CHLORITE 666 A. Effect of pH 67 B. Bleaching Mechanism 67 C. Effect of Temperature 67 V. OTHER OXIDATIVE BLEACHES A. Persulfates B. Perborates and Percarbonates C. Peracetic Acid V. REDUCTIVE BLEACHES 6668 A. Sulfur Dioxide B. Sodium Dithionate(Sodium Hydrosulfite) VIL. TEST FOR DEGREE OF BLEACHING A. Whiteness B. Fluidity VIIL. OPTICAL BRIGHTENERS 70 A. Stilbene Type OBA 71 CHAPTER 5 OTHER PROCESSES 72 I. MERCERIZING A. Chain Mercerizing 73 1. Procedure 73 2. Points of Concern and Control 74 B. Caustic Concentration Units

C. Test for Mercerization 1. Barium Number D. Mercerizing Fiber Blends 1. Polyester/Cotton 76 2. Cotton/Rayon 76 E. Yarn Mercerizing 76 F. Chainless Mercerizing II. SINGEING A. Points of Control 77 III. CARBONIZING OF WOOL 77 HEAT SETTING A. Points of Concern 78 PART II FABRIC FINISHING 80 chAPTER 6 MECHANICAL ASPECTS OF CHEMICAL FINISHING I. FINISH APPLICATORS 81 A. Padder 1. Location of Padded Liquid 82 B. Vacuum Slots 83 1. Advantages of Vacuum Slot 84 C. Kiss rolls Factors Affecting Wet Pick-Up D. Engraved Roll Applicator E. Foam Applicators 86 1. Knife Coaters 87 2. Horizontal Pad 3. FFT Applicator F. Location of One-Sided Applied Finishes II. DRYING AND CURING 90 A. Migration 90 III. DRYERS AND OVENS A. Dry cans 91 B. Roller ovens 92 C. Loop Ovens 92 D. Tenter frames 93 E. Other Dryers CHAPTER 7 DURABLE PRESS FINISHES 97 . WHY FABRICS WRINKLE