《染整原理 Principle of dyeing and finishing》课程教学资源（PPT课件讲稿，双语）Chapter 8 General Finishing

Chapter General Finishing Lecturer: Prof Dr Yan kelu

Chapter 8 General Finishing Lecturer: Prof. Dr. Yan kelu

Chapter 8 General Finishing 8.1 Introduction

Chapter 8 General Finishing 8.1 Introduction

8.2 Mechanical Finishing 8.2.1 Stentering Hot air stenter(hot air jig tenter)(pin clip)

8.2 Mechanical Finishing • 8.2.1 Stentering • Hot air stenter (hot air jig tenter) (pin clip)

8.2.2 Calendering Calendering is a purely mechanical process although chemicals may be used to enhance and make durable the results obtained by calendering Calenders consist of a series of from three to eleven heavy rollers turning against each other Alternate rolls are made of polished chilled steel brass, cast iron, etc and may be solid or with a hollow core and may be covered with cotton, pith paper, linen or husk

8.2.2 Calendering Calendering is a purely mechanical process although chemicals may be used to enhance and make durable the results obtained by calendering. Calenders consist of a series of from three to eleven heavy rollers turning against each other. Alternate rolls are made of polished chilled steel, brass, cast iron, etc. and may be solid or with a hollow core and may be covered with cotton, pith, paper, linen or husk

8.2.2.1 Rolling calender or SWIshing On a simple rolling calender the fabric passes around the bottom roll and through the nip around the next roll and so on to the last nip This treatment serves to give a final smoothness to the cloth and make it less porous and open

8.2.2.1 Rolling calender or swissing On a simple rolling calender the fabric passes around the bottom roll and through the nip, around the next roll and so on to the last nip. This treatment serves to give a final smoothness to the cloth and make it less porous and open

8222 Chasing(叠层轧光 On the chasing calender the cloth passes through the calender in the same manner as in the rolling calender and is then fed back through the rolls a second time so that two layers of fabric pass through the nips at the same time. The finish obtained on a chasing calender is softer but fuller and with less of a sheen than with a rolling calender

8.2.2.2 Chasing(叠层轧光) • On the chasing calender the cloth passes through the calender in the same manner as in the rolling calender and is then fed back through the rolls a second time so that two layers of fabric pass through the nips at the same time. The finish obtained on a chasing calender is softer but fuller and with less of a sheen than with a rolling calender

8. 2.2.3 Friction Calendering In this type of calendering a friction due to a difference in speed of the cloth and the rolls is the most important factor in the finish obtained. In the friction calender the cloth passes through at a slower speed than the third roll which is a polished chilled steel roll. The cloth passes through the calender at the speed of the two lower rolls and the driven polished roll revolves on the cloth at a higher speed and polishes it

8.2.2.3 Friction Calendering • In this type of calendering a friction due to a difference in speed of the cloth and the rolls is the most important factor in the finish obtained. In the friction calender the cloth passes through at a slower speed than the third roll which is a polished chilled steel roll. The cloth passes through the calender at the speed of the two lower rolls and the driven polished roll revolves on the cloth at a higher speed and polishes it

This gives a highly glazed surface and closes the interstices in the goods to give a smooth finish. If the third roll is run hot a high glaze is obtained. If resins are used the glaze produced will be relatively permanent

This gives a highly glazed surface and closes the interstices in the goods to give a smooth finish. If the third roll is run hot a high glaze is obtained. If resins are used the glaze produced will be relatively permanent

8.2.24 Shreinering(电光) The shreiner calender has a series of fine striations or lines engraved on it. generally about 250 to the inch These lines are engraved at an angle with the construction of the cloth. The shreiner calender gives a very high but deep seated luster to the cloth. The effect emphasized luster as apposed to the glaze which is obtained with a friction calender. On goods which have been shreiner calendered it is possible to see the embossed lines in the fabric under a pick glass

8.2.2.4 Shreinering（电光） The shreiner calender has a series of fine striations or lines engraved on it, generally about 250 to the inch. These lines are engraved at an angle with the construction of the cloth. The shreiner calender gives a very high but deep seated luster to the cloth. The effect emphasized luster as apposed to the glaze which is obtained with a friction calender. On goods which have been shreiner calendered it is possible to see the embossed lines in the fabric under a pick glass

8.225 Embossing(轧纹) The embossing calender is similar to a friction calender except that the top roll is engraved with a pattern and turns at the same speed as the bottom rolls. Before running cloth through an embossing calender the soft roll adjacent to the engraved roll is dampened until the pattern of the engraved roll is impressed into the soft roll. After the impression on the soft roll is sufficiently deep the calender is run until the soft roll is thoroughly dry. cloth is then run through the calender and the engraved pattern is embossed onto the cloth

8.2.2.5 Embossing（轧纹） The embossing calender is similar to a friction calender except that the top roll is engraved with a pattern and turns at the same speed as the bottom rolls. Before running cloth through an embossing calender the soft roll adjacent to the engraved roll is dampened until the pattern of the engraved roll is impressed into the soft roll. After the impression on the soft roll is sufficiently deep the calender is run until the soft roll is thoroughly dry. Cloth is then run through the calender and the engraved pattern is embossed onto the cloth