广东纺织职业技术学院：《针织物结构基本理论 Theory of knitted structures》PPT

PPP- Education Center 1414141+142 PPP-教育中心 丫 丫丫 TiY1Y1 Theory of knitted structures 针织物结构基本理论 囚区国 Mayer cie. Germany 德国迈耶西公司 Guangdong Institute of Textile Technology 广东纺织职业技术学院

PPP - Education – Center PPP - 教育中心 Theory of knitted structures 针织物结构基本理论 Mayer & Cie. Germany 德国迈耶西公司 Guangdong Institute of Textile Technology 广东纺织职业技术学院

PPP. - Center Theory of knitted structures includes all information about analysis of patterns and their production 针织物结构理论知识包括织物花型分析和生产。 Theory of knitted structures informs about construction of fabrics, the effects of the different elements and their appearance in the pattern. It is the basis for a precise pattern analysis 针织物结构理论阐述了织物的结构、各种结构形式的外观效果及花型效应。它是准 确地进行花型分析的基础 Theory of knitted structures helps also to analyze and understand the stitch forming process. So it is possible to find the reasons of appearing mistakes very fast 针织物结构理论帮助我们分析和理解线圈的形成过程,因此可以迅速地找出产生错 误的原因

Theory of knitted structures includes all information about analysis of patterns and their production. 针织物结构理论知识包括织物花型分析和生产。 Theory of knitted structures informs about construction of fabrics, the effects of the different elements and their appearance in the pattern. It is the basis for a precise pattern analysis. 针织物结构理论阐述了织物的结构、各种结构形式的外观效果及花型效应。它是准 确地进行花型分析的基础。 Theory of knitted structures helps also to analyze and understand the stitch forming process. So it is possible to find the reasons of appearing mistakes very fast. 针织物结构理论帮助我们分析和理解线圈的形成过程，因此可以迅速地找出产生错 误的原因。 PPP - Education - Center

PPP-Education- Center Binding elements in circular knitting 圆型针织物的结构形式 There are 3 basic elements to create a structure 形成织物组织有三种基本的结构形式 stch成圈线圈 tuck集圈线圈 miss浮线

There are 3 basic elements to create a structure 形成织物组织有三种基本的结构形式 Binding elements in circular knitting 圆型针织物的结构形式 stitch 成圈线圈 tuck 集圈线圈 miss 浮线 PPP - Education - Center

PPP. - Center Stitch成圈 A stitch has3pas一个线圈由三部分组成 1Head2Leg3foot1.针编弧2.圈柱3.沉降弧 To create a stitch, the needle has to come out to its highest position. The old stitch comes under the needle latch. After catching the new thread the needle moves downward. the old 2 stitch closes the latch and the new thread is pulled through the existing stitch. Now the new stitch is created 3 为了形成一个线圈,织针必须上升到最高点。旧线圈滑落到 针舌下;织针钩取新纱线后向下运动;旧线圈将针舌关闭,新纱 线从旧线圈中穿过,而形成新线圈 mIss pos.不编织位置 clearing pos.退圈位置 yarn insertion垫纱位置 knock over pos.脱圈位置

Stitch 成圈 A stitch has 3 parts 一个线圈由三部分组成 1 Head 2 Leg 3 foot 1. 针编弧 2. 圈柱 3. 沉降弧 To create a stitch, the needle has to come out to its highest position. The old stitch comes under the needle latch. After catching the new thread the needle moves downward. The old stitch closes the latch and the new thread is pulled through the existing stitch. Now the new stitch is created. 为了 形成一个线圈，织针必须上升到最高点。旧线圈滑落到 针舌下；织针钩取新纱线后向下运动；旧线圈将针舌关闭，新纱 线从旧线圈中穿过，而形成新线圈。 miss pos. 不编织位置 clearing pos. 退圈位置 yarn insertion. 垫纱位置 knock over pos. 脱圈位置 PPP - Education - Center

PPP-Education - Center Tuck集圈 mISs pos.不编织位置 tuck pos.集圈位置 insertion tuck.集圈纱喂入 The way of the tuck is nearly similar to the way of the stitch. It starts from the foot, builds a loop and goes back to the foot. So the tuck loop is fixed in the fabric with 4 points. The tuck appears always together with a stitch 集圈线圈的串套方式与成圈线圈相似,由沉降弧开始,到针编弧,再到沉降弧。因此集圈线圈 与织物连结有4个点。集圈线圈总是与一个成圈线圈一起出现 To create a tuck the needle must come out on tuck position that means, the existing stitch remains on the needle latch a second thread is laid in and so two threads are in one needle hook 在形成集圈线圈时,织针要上升到集圈位置,这就意味着,旧线圈仍位于针舌上,当新纱线喂 入后,就有两根纱线位于针钩内。 In pattern analysis the tuck can be easily mixed up with miss 在织物花型分析时,集圈线圈很容易与浮线相混淆

Tuck 集圈 The way of the tuck is nearly similar to the way of the stitch. It starts from the foot, builds a loop and goes back to the foot. So the tuck loop is fixed in the fabric with 4 points. The tuck appears always together with a stitch 集圈线圈的串套方式与成圈线圈相似，由沉降弧开始，到针编弧，再到沉降弧。因此集圈线圈 与织物连结有4个点。集圈线圈总是与一个成圈线圈一起出现。 To create a tuck the needle must come out on tuck position, that means, the existing stitch remains on the needle latch. A second thread is laid in and so two threads are in one needle hook. 在形成集圈线圈时，织针要上升到集圈位置，这就意味着，旧线圈仍位于针舌上，当新纱线喂 入后，就有两根纱线位于针钩内。 In pattern analysis the tuck can be easily mixed up with miss. 在织物花型分析时，集圈线圈很容易与浮线相混淆。 miss pos. 不编织位置 tuck pos. 集圈位置 insertion tuck. 集圈纱喂入 PPP - Education - Center

PPP-Education - Center F| oat stitch浮线 The float stitch starts at the foot and ends at the other foot of the e IC WI ut any XIng p oint 浮线是一个线圈的沉降弧与另一线圈的沉降弧中间的一段 直线,没有其它作用,因此浮线与织物无任何连结点。 To create a float stitch the needle is not selected that means the needle remains in miss position 编织浮线时,织针不被选针,即织针仍位于不编织位置。 In single jersey fabrics the float stitch appears on the technical left side of the fabric In double faced fabrics the float stitch lies between both sides and can be mixed up easily with a tuck 单面织物中,浮线位于织物工艺反面。双面织物中,浮线 位于正反面的线圈中间,很容易与集圈线圈相混淆

Float stitch 浮线 The float stitch starts at the foot and ends at the other foot of the stitch without any other function. So the float stitch lies in the fabric without any fixing point. 浮线是一个线圈的沉降弧与另一线圈的沉降弧中间的一段 直线，没有其它作用，因此浮线与织物无任何连结点。 To create a float stitch, the needle is not selected, that means the needle remains in miss position. 编织浮线时，织针不被选针，即织针仍位于不编织位置。 In single jersey fabrics the float stitch appears on the technical left side of the fabric. In double faced fabrics the float stitch lies between both sides and can be mixed up easily with a tuck. 单面织物中，浮线位于织物工艺反面。双面织物中，浮线 位于正反面的线圈中间，很容易与集圈线圈相混淆。 PPP - Education - Center

PPP. - Center The important positions of the needle织针编织的重要位置 The stitch forming in a circular knitting machine is only possible, if the needles move. To create the stitch there is both vertical and horizontal movement necessary the horizontal movement comes from the turning of the machine, the vertical movement comes from the cam part, which guides the needle in a track 在圆型针织机中,只有织针运动才能形成线圈。在线圈形成过程中织针必须作水平和垂直方向的运 动。织针水平方向的运动来自于机器的运转,垂直方向的运动来自于三角座,三角控制织针在针道内运 clearing po tuck pos 圈位置 集圈位置 yarn insertion mIss pos 纱线喂入 不编织位置 stitch forming pos 线圈形成位置

The important positions of the needle 织针编织的重要位置 The stitch forming in a circular knitting machine is only possible, if the needles move. To create the stitch there is both vertical and horizontal movement necessary. The horizontal movement comes from the turning of the machine, the vertical movement comes from the cam part, which guides the needle in a track. 在圆型针织机中，只有织针运动才能形成线圈。在线圈形成过程中织针必须作水平和垂直方向的运 动。织针水平方向的运动来自于机器的运转，垂直方向的运动来自于三角座，三角控制织针在针道内运 动。 tuck pos. 集圈位置 miss pos. 不编织位置 clearing pos. 圈位置 yarn insertion 纱线喂入 stitch forming pos. 线圈形成位置 PPP - Education - Center

PPP.Education Center Drawing of elements of knitted structures针织物结构的表示 There are two possibilities to draw the elements knit, tuck and miss. It is always useful to use both possibilities for documentation 有两种方式来表示针织物形成方式:成圈、集圈、不编织。通常同时采用这两 种方式来表示。 Knitting structures编织图 Cam setting table三角配置图 To draw the knitting structures the following To draw the cam setting table the following symbols are used symbols are used 用下面的符号来表示编织状态: 用下面的符号来表示三角配置情况: Knit成圈 knt成圈 TUck集圈 TUck集圈 Miss不编织 Miss不编织

Drawing of elements of knitted structures 针织物结构的表示 There are two possibilities to draw the elements knit, tuck and miss. It is always useful to use both possibilities for documentation. 有两种方式来表示针织物形成方式：成圈、集圈、不编织。通常同时采用这两 种方式来表示。 Cam setting table 三角配置图 To draw the cam setting table the following symbols are used: 用下面的符号来表示三角配置情况： knit 成圈 Tuck 集圈 Miss 不编织 Knitting structures 编织图 To draw the knitting structures the following symbols are used: 用下面的符号来表示编织状态： Knit 成圈 Tuck 集圈 Miss 不编织 PPP - Education - Center

PPP-Education- Center Characteristics of knitted structures针织物结构的特性 In production of circular knitted structures there is made a difference between single and double sided structures 在圆型织物的生产中,单面织物和双面织物的生产方式不同。 Single sided structures are produced on machines having only a cylinder. Double sided fabrics are produced on machines having cylinder and dial 单面织物是在只具有一个针筒的机器上生产的,双面织物则是在具有针筒和针盘的机器上生 产的。 Because of these main differences the structures are generally separated in right-left structures and right-right structures 因为织物结构存在主要区别,所以通常分为 正面-反面结构织物和正面正面结构织物

Characteristics of knitted structures 针织物结构的特性 In production of circular knitted structures there is made a difference between single and double sided structures. 在圆型织物的生产中，单面织物和双面织物的生产方式不同。 Single sided structures are produced on machines having only a cylinder. Double sided fabrics are produced on machines having cylinder and dial. 单面织物是在只具有一个针筒的机器上生产的，双面织物则是在具有针筒和针盘的机器上生 产的。 Because of these main differences the structures are generally separated in right - left structures and right - right structures. 因为织物结构存在主要区别，所以通常分为 正面- 反面结构织物和正面 - 正面结构织物。 PPP - Education - Center

PPP-Education - Center Single faced fabrics单面织物 Single jersey fabrics are structures which are knitted on single sided machines, that means on machine which have only a cylinder 单面织物是在单面机器上编织的,也就是在只具有一个针筒的机器上编织。 Single sided fabrics have a technical right and a technical left side 单面织物具有工艺正面和工艺反面 On the technical right side the legs of the On the technical left side the heads of the stitch stitch give the characteristic surface. The give the characteristic surface. The direction of direction of the legs is always in vertical the heads is always in horizontal direction direction 在织物工艺反面,圈弧显示特有的外观效应, 在织物的工艺正面,圈柱显示特有的外圈弧的方向通常是水平方向。 观效应,圈柱的方向通常是垂直方向

Single jersey fabrics are structures which are knitted on single sided machines, that means on machine which have only a cylinder. 单面织物是在单面机器上编织的，也就是在只具有一个针筒的机器上编织。 Single sided fabrics have a technical right and a technical left side. 单面织物具有工艺正面和工艺反面。 On the technical right side the legs of the stitch give the characteristic surface. The direction of the legs is always in vertical direction. 在织物的工艺正面，圈柱显示特有的外 观效应，圈柱的方向通常是垂直方向。 On the technical left side the heads of the stitch give the characteristic surface. The direction of the heads is always in horizontal direction. 在织物工艺反面，圈弧显示特有的外观效应， 圈弧的方向通常是水平方向。 Single faced fabrics 单面织物 PPP - Education - Center